| Every hair designer has his or her own style of doing their services these are my own suggestions based on my knowledge of the hair. "There is not a right or wrong way, if you are happy with the results in the end" ... Kimberly G
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Stretching the Life of Highlights
No matter how great your highlight design, it's going to grow out. And nowadays many of us are eager to extend those retouches. As your stylists I understand the budget. To extend the life of a highlight, try switching to zigzag partings. This hides the origin of the highlight and disguises the line of demarcation. Also, skip the super-skinny sections. If you ask for very fine highlights, the re-growth at the root will be more obvious and the client will have to come in more often. Making the highlights a little more chunky but not streaky. You can also do what we call a root bump this is where we lighten the base of your color so it is closer to the shade of the highlighted color. This is less expensive and very cost effective.
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Q: I have a hair color question. I have been dying my hair since I was 17 now I am 49. My hair grows so fast that I have to color my hair every 3 weeks. I dye I medium brown which looks dark brown. I think it is too dark but I feel light brown doesn’t cover the gray. Any suggestions cause I really would like to color it a light brown.
A: One of the greatest difficulties I face as a hair designer is adequately explaining to people how hair color works. In a nutshell, when you are dealing with a permanent hair color formula being applied to hair that is a mixture of gray, naturally-colored, and previously-colored hair, you are adding pigments to not only the gray portions of the hair, but also to the naturally-pigmented and previously-colored portions of the hair as well. This addition of pigment can result in a much darker result than you expect since you are darkening even the previously darkened hair.
This is why permanent color is usually applied only to the new growth of hair during the first half of a retouch service then is added to the rest of the hair for the last 5-10 minutes of the color service to “freshen up” the color. It is also why the aim in salons when covering gray hair with color is to “blend away” the gray in an attempt to create a natural-looking color. Depending on the amount of gray hair present, the color used is generally a few shades lighter than the naturally-pigmented hair and the result is that the gray hair becomes a “highlight color”. The alternative would be to use a shade equal to the naturally-pigmented hair which would create a flat color result.
Addressing your problem specifically:
It is important to note that we will have to deal with the previously colored hair as a factor in considering what to do to get your hair the color you want. The problem I have is that I cannot make any specific color suggestions since I don’t know what color was previously used or what your natural color is, and therefore what may be in conflict with those colors.
In the most general terms the fact that you want to go from a darker brown to a lighter brown means that you will have to lighten the existing color. The exact process needed will depend on how much of a lightening effect you want.
Given the unknown factors involved and the chance for errors and potential damage to the hair I STRONGLY encourage you to seek the assistance of a professional stylist in order to make this transition. You can specify to him or her that you need something you can maintain yourself if that is a major consideration, but I do not recommend trying to do this kind of color shift yourself.
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Stripping Hair Color
Q: I want to go back to my natural hair color which is dark brown mixed with LOTS of gray. Can my dyed color be stripped off, or do I have to do it the hard way and let it grow out (which I do not want to do as the dyed color is much lighter). Help.
A: Okay. This is a common misconception about hair color and the way it works. In order to give the hair a lighter color when the natural color is darker, the color molecules inside the hair must be dispersed until the hair is sufficiently light to allow the new color to appear accurately.
Many people think of lighter hair color as being an opaque application which can be stripped off, much like stripping paint off of a surface. The only hair color formulas that rest entirely on the surface of the hair shaft are temporary colors, and those will never provide any lightening effect in darker hair.
Because of the way hair color works, you cannot simply “strip off your hair color” and get to the natural color. What you will likely end up with is a very pale, ashen-looking beige color.
One option you have is to use semi-permanent hair color that is as close in shade to your natural color as possible to cover up your new growth while your natural color grows in. The semi-permanent color usually lasts for 8-12 shampoos and fades gradually, which will allow you to monitor your hair’s progress in growing out the permanent hair color.
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Wash Out Hair Dye
Q: I have dyed my hair yesterday I do not like the color that I have dyed it as it’s too dark for me. I usually dye my hair natural light brown, natural medium brown and natural dark brown as they suite my skin tone. I dyed my hair yesterday natural darkest brown and my hair looks black which is why I don’t like it. I am going to wash it every day of this week in hope some of it will wash out and condition it well as my hair is natural if I wash it every day of the week it goes all dry and fly away, so I normally wash it twice a week to keep it in good condition. Please can you inform me if I wash my hair every day that some of the dye will wash out?
A: Generally speaking, permanent hair color tends to fade only if the hair is porous. After washing all color will lighten with washing depending on the porosity of the hair is the time it will hold on to color or fad color. If your hair is indeed porous you can simply shampoo the hair a few times and monitor the lightening effect on the hair. If, however, the hair isn’t porous, you may need to take different measures to lighten the color results you have.
This can be accomplished using what is called a “peroxide cap”. I recommend going to your stylist, talk with them about a peroxide cap. If they are good with color they will know what this is and fix your to dark hair to a softer shade.
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Q. SHOULD I WASH MY HAIR BEFORE I COLOR?
No. Not necessary.
The natural oils on your scalp act as a buffer between
your skin and the chemicals you’re applying, this is most important if you have a sensitive scalp so it’s best not to shampoo for 24
hours before base coloring or a on the scalp bleaching. More important to me if you’re going to a salon, make sure your last wash
before the appointment isn’t with a color-depositing shampoo or conditioner.
These can skew how the colorist perceives your current shade, therefore
altering the results. I work on wet hair when doing my highlight service. That is my style. But you still do not have to wash for me because I will do that for you.
Q. What’s the difference between semi permanent and
permanent color, and how do I choose?
A. Semi permanent color contains pigments that coat the
outside of the hair shafts. It washes out in about five to seven weeks, so it’s
good for people who are wary of a big commitment to color or who want just a
subtle change. It can darken the tone of your current shade and cover a few
gray hairs, but it can’t address a full head of white strands. Permanent hair
color, on the other hand, typically contains ammonia to open the hair cuticles,
so color gets deposited inside the shafts. It may also contain peroxide, which
bleaches out hair’s natural tones. A permanent dye job can lighten hair,
completely change its shade, and fully cover gray, but maintenance is high:
Your roots will be obvious. “You’re looking at a touch-up every four to six
weeks.
Q. What factors affect how my hair takes color?
A. The two biggies: your hair’s health and its texture.
Healthy hair holds on to color best. If yours is dry or damaged, it might fade
quickly. Finer hair lightens faster and generally requires more gentle (semi
permanent) agents, while coarser hair is more color-resistant but can handle
potent chemicals. At a salon, a colorist can make adjustments to accommodate
your hair type by leaving the color on longer or washing it out sooner, but at
home it’s harder to make those judgment calls. Also the store bought box color
is harsher because of the quality of the product and the levels of ammonia are
much higher so the color will take on the toughest of hair texture. (That’s why
salon color is often a safer choice.)
In addition, some medications and other drugs may affect
hair’s receptivity to dye. The most common culprits could be thyroid
medications, chemotherapy, and some types of hormonal medications. Always alert
your colorist about medication changes.
ARE HAIR COLORING CHEMICALS HARMFUL?
Dyeing your hair can weaken it, which is why colorists
stress the importance of using conditioning treatments and color-specific
products. Coloring formulas can also irritate your scalp if it’s extremely
sensitive. About 30 years ago, concern arose that chemicals in the coloring
process might increase the risk for certain cancers in those who dye their
hair, “but most large studies since then have been reassuring,” says Michael J.
Thun, M.D., M.S., vice president of epidemiology and surveillance research for
the American Cancer Society. And according to the American College of
Obstetricians and Gynecologists, hair dyes are considered safe to use during
pregnancy. (Still, if you’re pregnant, colorists suggest consulting your
doctor.)
HOW DO I KEEP MY HAIR COLORING FROM FADING?
A. You can’t stop fading completely, but you can slow it
down. Don’t shampoo for at least a day after you color. From then on, wash only
every two to three days. Stick to shampoos and conditioners made for
color-treated hair, since “these products are designed to keep the hair shafts
closed, and that keeps color in,” explains Crawford. If your scalp gets greasy
on days you don’t shampoo I suggests scrubbing and rinsing your scalp with
plain water, then conditioning and rinsing the hair’s ends. Or try a dry
shampoo, which absorbs scalp oils without the need for water. Or my favorite
some baby power and brush out.
Shield hair from the sun with a hat or a color-protecting
styling product. Salt water and chlorine can fade your shade, too, so create a
barrier by wetting hair with fresh water, then applying –conditioner “Hair acts like a sponge,” says color
specialist Kimberly Givsan. “If it’s wet, it can’t absorb (the chlorine or the
salt water) and will fade less.”
In general, help keep hair healthy by minimizing the damage
of heat styling with a frequent conditioning treatment. And be wary of
volumizing products, which can open the hair’s cuticles, releasing the color
inside and causing fading.
Q. I had my hair colored and I hate the shade. What can I
do?
A. If you know you’re not happy while you’re still at the
salon, speak up. A pro can usually remedy the problem with ease. “Sometimes you
can simply take it to another shade with a toner, or maybe add a few highlights
or lowlights. If you realize you don’t like the color after you get home, call
and speak to the manager of the stylist. A reputable stylist or salon will
guarantee their work and invite you back to fix it. Whatever you do, don’t try
to correct the color yourself. You run the risk of making matters worse, since
the product you use may react with the chemicals already in your hair. (Green
highlights have been known to happen.)
For home hair-color mistakes, I suggest washing every day for
a week with a clarifying shampoo, which can remove some of the dye. If you want
to be more aggressive, I recommend scrubbing hair one time with a mix of liquid
dish soap and a tablespoon of baking soda. Follow this with a deep conditioner.
Q. How can I keep my highlights looking good longer?
A. Protect hair from the sun, which can oxidize color and
turn golden streaks orange (a common complaint). If you shower with treated
well water or water that has a high rust content (both of which can deposit minerals
that make highlights look brassy), install a shower filter. Or use a
detoxifying treatment. You can google this for the proucts. I recommend Divines
or Purelogy products.
If your highlights have already turned brassy, a colorist
can apply a glaze to counteract the orange and return your hair to the desired
shade. Color-enhancing shampoos and conditioners that have a blue or purple
color can also neutralize brassiness.
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Hair Tipping and what should I tip?
Here is a site that gives many different opinions
http://parents.berkeley.edu/advice/beauty/tipping.html
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Using Bio Silk on my hair
Silk protein, aka silk peptides or silk amino acids, seems to be an increasingly popular ingredient in both human and pet shampoos and conditioners. For one thing the concept of "silk" has tremendous marketing value, because most people associate silk with luxury, smoothness, and nature. For decades, products have promised to leave a "silky feel" to our hair; now we have the real thing, right IN the product. How cool is that?
Silk peptides are obtained by the hydrolysis of silk fibers (silk worm yarn) with strong alkalines or enzymes. This removes the gummy outer layer of the natural silk and breaks it down into tiny pieces which can be blended into products. So we could say that silk protein is the "inner stuff" of silk.
Applied to the hair, silk protein dries to form a transparent crystalline protective film. That puts it into a category of ingredients called "film formers". The protective film seals the hair cuticle, increasing combability (detangling) and shine, and acts as a moisturizer by preventing drying. These properties make silk protein an excellent conditioning ingredient. It is often selected by formulators as a more natural alternative to silicone polymers. Like silicone, silk protein is a light weight ingredient that does not weigh down the hair. Also like silicone, however, the silk protein can build up over time causing really bad hair days. Any ingredient that clings well to the hair in spite of water pressure, blow drying, styling, etc., is subject to building up.
Some companies take the marketing a bit further and claim that silk protein actually rebuilds and strengthens hair. They will also claim that it penetrates the hair cuticle and toughens the cortex of the hair strand. This is a big stretch and generally goes beyond the scientific knowledge. Protein molecules in their natural form are too large to penetrate the hair cuticle. That goes for all the protein ingredients, including hydrolyzed wheat protein, collagen, soy protein, whatever. In order to penetrate, the protein molecule would have to be chemically altered. If I find out otherwise, I'll let you know.
The bottom-line answer to our question is that silk proteins have excellent value in hair care products, but simply do not repair or rebuild hair as some companies claim.
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| Is silk protein just a fad ingredient, or does it have real value in hair care products?
Silk protein, aka silk peptides or silk amino acids, seems to be an increasingly popular ingredient in both human and pet shampoos and conditioners. For one thing the concept of "silk" has tremendous marketing value, because most people associate silk with luxury, smoothness, and nature. For decades, products have promised to leave a "silky feel" to our hair; now we have the real thing, right IN the product. How cool is that? Silk peptides are obtained by the hydrolysis of silk fibers (silk worm yarn) with strong alkalines or enzymes. This removes the gummy outer layer of the natural silk and breaks it down into tiny pieces which can be blended into products. So we could say that silk protein is the "inner stuff" of silk. Applied to the hair, silk protein dries to form a transparent crystalline protective film. That puts it into a category of ingredients called "film formers". The protective film seals the hair cuticle, increasing combability (detangling) and shine, and acts as a moisturizer by preventing drying. These properties make silk protein an excellent conditioning ingredient. It is often selected by formulators as a more natural alternative to silicone polymers. Like silicone, silk protein is a light weight ingredient that does not weigh down the hair. Also like silicone, however, the silk protein can build up over time causing really bad hair days. Any ingredient that clings well to the hair in spite of water pressure, blow drying, styling, etc., is subject to building up. Some companies take the marketing a bit further and claim that silk protein actually rebuilds and strengthens hair. They will also claim that it penetrates the hair cuticle and toughens the cortex of the hair strand. This is a big stretch and generally goes beyond the scientific knowledge. Protein molecules in their natural form are too large to penetrate the hair cuticle. That goes for all the protein ingredients, including hydrolyzed wheat protein, collagen, soy protein, whatever. In order to penetrate, the protein molecule would have to be chemically altered. If I find out otherwise, I'll let you know. The bottom-line answer to our question is that silk proteins have excellent value in hair care products, but simply do not repair or rebuild hair as some companies claim.
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| How can I fix my Dry hair? |
| Here are many ways to fix or at least improve the look and feel of your hair.
First, consider how you care for your hair overall:
If you do not get it trimmed regularly (about every 6 weeks), start doing so. This will help get rid of split ends which are notorious for making hair look and feel "fried".
What type of brush do you use? Plastic bristled brushes tend to pull and tear hair. Try a boar bristle brush instead. The added benefit is that the boar bristled brushes also distribute the natural oils produced by the scalp more evenly.,P.
What appliances do you use? Hairdryers, curling or straightening irons, etc. Anything heated is bound to damage hair over time. If you can let your hair dry naturally or not use the higher heat settings, that will help. Consider using a hair-drying towel (or even paper towels) to sop up water from hair prior to blow-drying so you do not have to expose your hair to the dryer as long. Also you can use the "cool setting" on your dryer (if applicable) as well.
Chemical processing is also damaging. Perms, color, relaxers, etc., can cause damage. If you color and are coloring your entire head every time, try just touching up the roots. Perms and most relaxers have no way around damage.
If you can, you might consider skipping a day between washes to give your hair a break and to let natural oils work their magic.
Okay, onto quick fixes:
Use a hydrating shampoo and a conditioner for dry hair (or if you prefer, a detangler or leave in treatment)
Do a deep conditioning treatment/masque every 7-10 days (or more if needed).
Avoid shampoos and conditioners with lots of wax and/or alcohol. Alcohol dries and wax just builds up on hair without really treating the problem.
For a holistic fix to the hair try this one:
Nothing perks up dry, listless hair better than slathering on a dollop of coconut oil. It brings hair stressed by the elements, natural and otherwise (think wind, sun, chlorine, harsh products, coloring, and blow-drying), back to life.
This long-maligned oil nourishes hair, skin, and overall health when you apply it topically or even eat it. Contrary to the bad press it gets, coconut oil is not high in saturated fat; the medium-chain fatty acid it contains actually packs a protective punch against heart disease and atherosclerosis. (Of course, you never want to use it in its hydrogenated form.
Coconut oil, which Asian and Pacific cultures have used for centuries to treat an array of illnesses from athlete's foot to urinary tract infections, boasts antiviral, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties. In addition, recent research notes coconut oil's ability to penetrate viral cells and fight off viruses that cause flu, hepatitis C, and even HIV, according to the Coconut Research Center.
Jungle Products, based in Healdsburg, California, contracts with family farms in the South Pacific to create its line of unrefined coconut oil -- sold in two potencies, one for eating and one for topical use, and in an array of personal care products including a soon-to-be-introduced hibiscus hair tonic.
Says company founder Emily Mattison, "Coconut oil has long been used by indigenous cultures for skin and hair care. In India, hibiscus flowers, which have antioxidant properties, are dredged in oil that is then massaged into scalp and hair and left on overnight." The overnight treatment nourishes the hair and also rids the scalp of any unwanted microbes.
For a simple in-home treatment, put a couple spoonfuls of plain coconut oil in a small glass bowl and place that bowl in another one filled with boiling water for 10 minutes until the coconut oil warms to a malleable consistency. Work the oil into your hair, one section at a time, moving from the roots to the ends until all the hair is covered. Give yourself a head massage using the fleshy parts of the fingertips, moving in a circular motion across the scalp. Leave the oil on for at least an hour (or sleep with it on for a deep healing treatment) and then shampoo. The coconut oil rejuvenates depleted hair and leaves the scalp smelling of lush locales.
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| How can I keep my color from fading? |
| All hair coloring fades with time. This is due mainly to environmental factors, oxidization, washing and heated styling. All of these factors lessen the pigments deposited in the hair with the initial coloring over time.
So What Can I Do?
If using semi-permanent dyes, wait the recommended time before applying the same shade. Semi-permanents are far gentler than permanent dyes and are designed to fade and come out over time. They do penetrate the hair to some extent but contain far less chemicals than permanent. Most are safe to re-apply periodically as per instructions. Some are fine to be applied over the whole head; some require root touch ups only. Semi-permanents cannot lighten hair. Caution should also be applied if the hair is exceptionally porous due to previous chemical processing
If you have used a permanent shade on your hair it is easy to be tempted to just keep dyeing over it whenever the color fades. This isn't really a good idea however. Permanent dyes penetrate and alter the chemical composition of the hair by depositing pigment below the outer surface. Putting your hair through this process again and again is not good for your hair.
Avoid using hot water when washing hair.
Use a mild formula shampoo. Some shampoo's can be quite harsh on colored hair (anti-dandruff varieties in particular) and can strip out a lot of the deposited pigment. Make sure you're using one recommended for colored hair.
Some volumizing related products might also help fade color faster because they are designed to open the hair cuticle that can accelerate color loss.
Hot oil treatments are also known to strip color out so avoid these also.
Use color enhancing shampoo's and conditioners, These come in all colors nowadays and work by depositing a small amount of pigment into the hair during washing and conditioning. Enough to 'pep up' the color and add a bit of shine back.
Red tones fade the quickest of all due the fact that most dyes don't have a lot of red tones in them. Again a red color enhancing shampoo/conditioner would be beneficial.
If out in the sun use hair-sunscreen.
Any Recommendations for Me ?
www.pureology.com
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